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Friday, May 20, 2005 Storefronts along la Calle de Fuencarral, Madrid: ![]() ![]() *********** The family dog: your very own personal transportation slave. Madrid, te quiero. rws 6:59 AM [+] |
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Wednesday, May 18, 2005 The night sky over northern Vermont: one of the things I miss when I'm on this side of the Atlantic. The milky way. The occasional hair-raising display of lightning. And every now and then the aurora borealis -- the heavens throwing a party. (Like the one folks in Eastern Washington state got to see three nights ago.) A week from now I'll be back among the green mountains, beneath that beautiful sky. Soon. Real soon. ![]() Madrid, te quiero. rws 6:15 AM [+] |
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Monday, May 16, 2005 [continued from previous entry] And then the alloted time expired, papers were collected, the room emptied out. (Except for the Arab fella, who remained hunched over his desk working feverishly away, producing strident sighs of anxious protest as one of the facilitators stood by him, waiting.) We'd been told the last part of the exam, the oral, speechifying part, would happen somewhere in the neighborhood of 3 or 3:30, giving us a little more than an hour and a half for an over-lunch post-mortem of the experience so far. Lunch, test, head home in time to beat rush hour On the way out of the building, C., A. and I saw that the times for the oral exam had been posted, which is when we discovered that the oral exam began at 3, with one person going every fifteen minutes. We'd been scheduled last, starting with me at 6:15. Meaning five long hours of waiting. FIVE. FREAKIN'. HOURS. Lunch got eaten. The day to that point got picked apart. The center of Alcalá got wandered around in. Time got killed. Until I finally found myself in the exam room with the two facilitators from the earlier in the day. The two I'd had to ask to quiet down. Didn't see any evidence of resentment (for which I gave silent thanks), just the slightest tinge of boredom, though they did their best to project positive, encouraging energy. One sat behind to my rear taking notes, the other sat at a desk in front of me, interacting, giving instructions. The instructions: Talk. First about anything I felt like. Then they presented me with two photocopied images, I had to describe them, come up with a relationship between them. Then they presented me with a sheet of paper containing three quotes -- my job: pick one, expound on it. By this time -- after a long, long day of hilarity, everything building up to this final stage of the experience -- so much adrenaline was shooting through my system that I realized talking was not going to be my problem. Trying to get me to shut me up would be the problem. At some point the examiner behind the desk realized just that, realized that he was trapped in a room with a furriner so intensely wired that the result would be hours, days, possibly weeks of unstoppable, high-speed blathering if he didn't take some action, at which time a fleeting look of terror crossed his face before he composed himself and leaped in, stopping me, moving things along. I finished up. My classmates finished up. We bolted, making our way through the town's Friday evening bustle, pleased at being out and free. The train ride. The Metro ride. When I emerged from underground, the streets of Madrid lay damp from recent rain, alive with people getting the weekend underway. That was Friday. Saturday: I drifted, dealing with having no deadline, no studying, with the sudden disappearance of pressure. Spent the entire afternoon in front of the 'puter. Ate. Ate some more. Went out, late afternoon, spent a couple of hours with a lovely woman, E. [see entry of May 3], doing the intercambio thing. On the way home, received a call from Jorge, [see entry of May 1] -- he who has connected me with a sizeable circle of people -- inviting me to a wingding. (The classic my-parents-are-away-let's-party scenario. Jorge is 36.) A short time later, I stood in his kitchen nursing a beer, Jorge making a salad, another friend cooking up eggs with garlic and kiwi (works out much better than it sounds), other folks about, conversation zipping around the room. By midnight, I sat with 11 people in the living room, gelati being eaten, the music getting loud and weird. Two of Jorge's cousins arrived, one turned out to be an AC/DC fanatic. An AC/DC disc quickly flew into the stereo, the volume loud enough to register on the Richter scale. Followed by the Village People. (Why the Village People? Who knows?) Also at high volume, Jorge and his cousins doing scary disco-style gyrations. At 1:40 a.m., half of those in attendance took advantage of a lull in the soundtrack to take off, I followed a minute or two later, finding myself back out in Madrid's crowded Saturday night streets, glad to be in the middle of it all, moving gradually in the direction of home, bed, sleep. Sunday: Drifted more. Recused myself from social hooha. Got less sleep than I would have preferred. Ate. Noticed I seemed to be slowly recovering weight lost during the last couple of weeks of work/study. As insurance, ate some more. Am now back into classes, the days cascading by at unnerving velocity. Madrid's summer weather has retreated a bit, the days remain beautiful, if a bit cooler. The trip back across the ocean looms ahead, eight short days away. Eight short days. But that will be then. This is now. Time to shut the computer off for a while. Later. ![]() Madrid, te quiero. rws 2:07 PM [+] |
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Thursday, May 12, 2005 The exam I've spent the last 2-1/2 months preparing for? Happens tomorrow. The starting gun goes off around 8:30, it should all be over but the sobbing by 3. (Or so. More or less.) The Er, where was I? Ah, right -- the important bit is that I passed all three dry-run exams, as did the other two members of the group who will be testing with me. Meaning the odds of making it through tomorrow's joyful hours with a passing grade are probably not bad. The bugger is going to happen at the centuries-old Universidad de Alcalá, a half-hour train ride to the east of Madrid. I have no intention of dragging myself out from under the covers at 6 a.m. or earlier so that I can elbow my way through rush hour, grab an early train and stagger to the examination site frothing at the mouth, which means I'll be hopping a train in a couple of hours to spend the night in Alcalá and show up at the exam reasonably well-rested, mentally prepared, blah blah blah. Back online sometime post-event. Later. ************ Seen this morning on the sidewalk along la Calle de Hortaleza, Madrid: ![]() Madrid, te quiero. rws 11:45 AM [+] |
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Wednesday, May 11, 2005 Earlier, I came across a lengthy interesting interview-style review of both The Revenge of the Sith and Serenity, the forthcoming Joss Wheedon big-screen follow-up to his late, great small screen series Firefly. The piece includes a brief discussion of (a) the Reavers, a culture of space savages given to rape and murder, and (b) filmmakers' use of sound in outer space (where there is no sound), a combination that got my wheels spinning. I'm now considering my own sci-fi screenplay, an 'Alien' meets 'Deliverance' kind of thing. A project that would lead naturally to bliss-producing ad tag lines like "In space no one can hear you squeal like a pig." Just the thought of the possible marketing campaign makes me happier than I have any right to be. Madrid, te quiero. rws 2:27 PM [+] |
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Saturday, May 07, 2005 Man, what a beautiful morning. Summer has settled securely in, the air is perfect, the sky deep blue, sunlight abundant. Me: stumbled my way out into the quiet streets shortly after ten, rounded up the a.m. paper, found a friendly cup of espresso, slowly worked my way through the two of them, a croissant providing accompaniment. Picked up some groceries. (At the produce stall, they were weighing some kind of huge, clublike, fearsome-looking root vegetables. Appearing less like food than primitive weapons. I mentioned that, the couple that run the stall fell about laughing, but didn't identify the, er, whatever those things were. Not that I quizzed the couple in any pointed way.) Passed back through the plaza with my stuff, saw a vacant bench on the shadow side of the space, planted myself there for a leisurely spell, continuing the swim back toward my limited version of full consciousness. Last night's neighborhood revels had carried on to just about sunrise, the occasional group of partyers (partiers? partyfolk? partydoers?) still passing through the streets around 6, 6:30, when the first rays of daylight finally drove them back to their coffins. If, on such mornings, the city cleaning crews don't make a pass through the barrio, there follows a period of blessed tranquility, two, three, sometimes even four hours' worth, after which the activity and sounds of the day slowly begin gathering. By the time I sat myself down in the plaza, the morning beer drinkers -- a group of scruffy-looking males whose numbers range anywhere from two to nine or ten, depending on the day and their individual schedules -- were well into loud, happy socializing. (Two of them singing a vaguely flamenco-styled thing, a third providing sloppy beatbox vocalizings.) I watched the scene. I breathed the morning air. I glanced through the paper. And as I stared foggily down at the newsprint, a hand thrust itself into my field of vision, proferring a newspaper of the political variety. In general, I am not interested in political rants or screeds, doesn't matter which part of the spectrum they come from. I'd rather enjoy my day.* If I open up an email -- the sender doesn't matter -- whose first sentence sets a tone of political spewing, and a glance at the rest confirms that the thrust is indeed political spewage, the email dies unread. I get to choose, and I care far less that someone might think me insensitive or ignorant than I care about the quality of my day. In this morning's instance, I might have accepted the paper, glanced at the front page to get its general tone, then likely would have slipped it directly into the first convenient recycling bin, but something about the extreme insistence with which it was presented promised more than a simple handing off of a newspaper. And indeed, it took several polite no-thank-you's to get the guy to withdraw the paper from under my nose, him attempting to break through my magic barrier of cordial refusal with a high-speed stream of political verbiage. I watched him pass off copies of the paper to other innocent folk passing through the plaza, who then found themselves receiving a political talking-to, shifting uneasily from foot to foot until they could escape and resume their lives. Not that this guy seemed like a bad sort in any way. Just deeply into imposing his political fervor on anyone he could. Ah, well. We all have our vices. *High-level political satire, on the other hand, suits me just fine. I tend to consider oases of smart silliness like The Daily Show and Las Noticias del Guiñol aids to day-enjoyment. [continued in next entry] ************ Fruit art! Madrid, te quiero. rws 6:19 AM [+] |
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Sunday, May 01, 2005 This morning, in the plaza down the street, the day getting underway in tranquil fashion. Early summer sun slowly gaining elevation, most of the plaza still in shadow, the air fresh and mild. Me paging through the Sunday paper, slowly regaining consciousness. A white van pulls in to make a delivery to a small convenience shop. The door opens, a tinny rendition the Star Wars theme music can be heard playing on the radio. Three gentlemen sit at a bench ten or fifteen feet to my left, sharing a morning beer. A teeny little dog goes shooting by, clearly overjoyed to be out in the morning air, careening all over the place in a show of raw, existential ecstasy. The men watch, enjoying the show. One extends a hand, snapping his fingers, trying to call the dog over. Without effect. The midget canine gallops across to the other side of the space to leap about with another happy, slightly larger four-legged. One of the benchwarmers spots a heavyset male coming around the corner, shouts out a congenial, "¡Cabrón gordo!" ('Fat bastard!') The approaching male, also carrying a morning beer, responds, "¡Gilipollas!" ('Asshole!') Congenial is as congenial does, I guess. That was this morning. This being a four-day weekend, many locals have fled town, a process that produced huge Friday evening traffic tie-ups, extending out away from the city for 80 or 90 miles, at least according to the news media. With boring predictability, el Partido Popular -- ousted from national office last year after the bombings -- blamed the year-old Socialist government for the mess. The Socialists in turn blamed the PP (who maintain control of both the city and provincial governments). If one ignores that kind of background noise, life here in the center is quieter, more tranquil than normal, abetted by the kind of early summer weather for which words like 'ideal' and 'gorgeous' were invented. Apart from the ongoing sounds of construction and rehab happening everywhere, that is, something that's been getting to me a bit lately, an indication more of my state of fatigue than anything else. Saturday morning, 8:30: some nitwit down the street began whaling away at something with a hammer. Yesterday morning: a different nitwit began hammering on metal, partying like that on into the afternoon. When I left the house at 4, they were still at it. You might not consider this a major deal, but trust me, with this barrio being ground zero for nighttime festivities, revelers hanging about until the first hint of light in the dawn sky, a few hours of peace and quiet feels like a gift from a benevolent universe. (Friday, 6 a.m. -- a group of 20-something women passed slowly by, singing -- loudly, in unison -- a tune that might have been fun to listen to at a more user-friendly hour. A guest using the flat's second bedroom for a couple of nights -- the sweetheart of a Belgian friend, a deep sleeper who remained out cold during the Saturday a.m. hammering -- awoke to the Friday wee-hour recital, mentioning it later with wry amazement. The display of nightlife wackiness here is sometimes truly impressive, and it says something that I've become accustomed to it, rarely find myself bothered by it. On the other hand, I've recently found myself looking forward to an extended period of relative quiet out in the northern Vermont countryside, waking up to crickets instead of folks deep into their early-morning cups. You got your yin, you got your yang, know what I mean?) Re: fatigue, etc. -- during the last two months' preparation for the DELE exam, my ability with castellano began steadily improving in clear, satisfying ways. That seemed to peak about two weeks back, right about the time I hooked up with a group of Spanish folks by way of a hugely entertaining guy named Jorge. I've since found myself hanging about with various configurations of that bunch, providing me with (a) fun, (b) interesting conversation to take part in and eavesdrop on, (c) opportunities to air out my language skills with folks who are mostly patient, encouraging, etc., and (d) the opportunity to get a good idea of my limits, to watch my performance level ebb and flow. And as the feeling of fatigue has taken hold, I've seen my capacity with the language shrink a bit. Understandable, I suppose, and a good barometer of how I'm holding up in the middle heightened activity and, at times, stress. All things considered, I'm holding up fairly well, the positive far outweighing whatever downsides I come across. [continued in next entry] *********** Recent handbills received here in the barrio (background: ads from El País Sunday magazine): ![]() Madrid, te quiero. rws 6:12 AM [+] |