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Sunday, March 23, 2008 [continued from previous entry] At that point, she paused, expression showing tentative concern. "Tienes cara de pena," she commented (literally, "you have a face of pain," always a fine thing to say to a friend). "¿Te encuentras bien?" Part of what she saw was left over from the earlier internet ugliness, but part had to do with lack of sleep. I chose to talk about that. Part of what I've loved about the barrio that's served as home for the past (pause to count slowly on fingers) 6.5932 years: it's filled with life. That's how it was when I settled in at summer's end in 2001, it's only gotten more so since then as it became a hot neighborhood, a destination for more than a night of carousing. That means walking out the door and finding oneself in the middle of energy, voices, faces, motion -- unless one is up and out before 10 on a weekend morning, when the rest of the local world is still huddled under the covers recovering from wee-hour bacchanalias. The nightly revelries are a fundamental part of the picture, and during the cooler months that's mostly okay. When the weather warms up, the flow of bodies through the local streets spikes, the resulting drunken racket spiking with it. Which can be fine until the weather warms up enough that windows have to remain open, street soundtrack pouring directly into living space. Two, three weeks back, during a stretch of gentle early-spring weather, daytime temperatures coasted blissfully up into the '60's, nudging 70, while nighttime temps. remained comfortably mild, provoking an immediately upsurge in nocturnal street life. One night around 3 a.m., some drunken geniuses discovered the empty garbage containers in the plaza down the street, resulting in sloppy, thunderous faux tribal drumming/screaming, five or ten minutes worth, with a brief reprise around 6 a.m. Two nights later, again around three, a larger crowd of 20-somethings drifted into the plaza and recommenced the drumming thing -- louder this time, more insistent, going on and on until I finally surrendered, levered myself up out of bed, drifted to the loo to dump the ballast, then opened a window to get a glance at the spectacle happening down the street. What I saw: an amorphous collection of 20-30 souls amassed around newly-emptied garbage containers, making mindless, purposely obnoxious racket, obviously indifferent to the effect it might be having on the barrio's residents. A minute or two later, the blue light of a police car appeared out on the main drag, a block in the opposite direction from the plaza. Two policias got out, batons in hand and walked rapidly toward the plaza. Two more appeared from around the nearest sidestreet corner. The four of them walked past the end of the plaza, not yet moving to confront -- going instead to a nearby building entrance to confer with some residents. Then moving purposely toward the crowd, spreading out around them, the raggedly defiant noise diminishing, finally stopping altogether. I couldn't hear the dialogue, but I got the gist of how the police handled it -- not provoking further defiance with bluntly aggressive demands. Judging by the tones of voice, they relied on a combination of reason and the quiet guarantee that drunken resistance would not end well. Individuals began drifting away from the group, followed by small clusters of 2, 3, 4, until a final handful remained, the cops closing in around them, the talk continuing until those last holdouts gave way and drifted off across the plaza into narrow streets. Interesting? You bet. (Though not a prime formula for bitchen beauty sleep.) The night before getting together with S., the wee hours brought one more burst of percussive hilarity –- five or ten minutes of sheer entertainment during the early hours, followed by lots of loud comings and goings. Hence my face of, er, pain the following morning. The weather gods must have grown tired of the noise as well. That same night a wave of winter weather rolled through the Iberian Peninsula, quieting everything down as revelers were driven inside by frigid conditions. Next evening: taking advantage of the city quieting down, I skipped crosstown to see a movie, figuring the theater would be quiet, relaxed, sparsely attended. Turned out a bunch of other people had the same idea, enough to half-fill the theater, everyone there to see a Mexican film that El País have given four stars. I've seen some good Mexican films in the last few years, I had no reason to think this one -- called Japón ("Japan," a title with little if any apparent connection with the story (the idea of suicide? homage to the ascetic, existential style of Kurosawa?)) -- would be any different. Until the film started, that is. When I saw Juno two or three weeks ago, I knew in the film's first minute that I was in for something I was going to like. This time, I knew in the first minute that I was in for a long, hard slog. So hard, turned out, that it inspired a haiku of four lines (three just not being enough): interminable incoherent script super low budget (and how!) freakin' pretentious The super low budget thing can be an asset, an advantage for clean, simple storytelling. In this case, it just felt like one more perverse, nerve-scraping, deliberately irritating element. Always at the same level, didn't matter if the camera was tightly focused on feet shuffling through arid, stony earth or had pulled far, far away, to a point of therapeutic remove. Whatever writer at El País decided this thing was worth four stars should be dragged into a dark projection room and beaten with rusty b-film movie reels. (Just kidding. Nerf bats would do.) [this entry in progress] runswithscissors -- giving so much, asking so little in return España, te quiero rws 7:56 AM [+] |